Dealing with Oily Skin, Acne, and Enlarged Pores: Effective Solutions

Acne, enlarged pores, and excessive oiliness?

Hello, I am seventeen years old and I believe my skin type is combination-oily (I haven't done a formal test, but I assessed it based on various skincare websites).
I have a common issue in both winter and summer: my skin feels tight after washing my face (I use handmade soap, alternating between two bars.
The first bar contains: geranium essential oil, ginger essential oil, mineral mud powder, and calendula; the second bar contains: rosemary essential oil, lemon eucalyptus essential oil, peppermint essential oil, mung bean powder, white atractylodes powder, and white peony powder).
After that, I use Muji's toner (ingredients: Glycerin, DPG, PEG-32, Glycosyl, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Starch, Purslane, Grapefruit, PCA-Na, Citric Acid, Sodium Acid Citrate, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol).
When I apply it with a cotton pad, the first layer feels fine, but the second layer starts to feel heavy, and sure enough, within five minutes, I begin to get oily.
I've tried several toners with the same issue.
What might be going wrong? How can I improve this?
The oiliness I wake up with is alarming; although I've heard that morning oil is good oil, the amount I have is excessive—my entire face is shiny, and I can wipe off a layer of oil, leaving plenty behind.
It's summer now (I live in Tainan), and I haven't applied anything on my face except for skincare products.
After going out for less than two hours, I still get extremely oily.
I'm really distressed about this excessive oiliness; it's not just in the T-zone, but my cheeks and chin are equally oily, making my face look dull and dirty.
What can I do to improve this? My pores on my nose, cheeks, and forehead are quite noticeable, and I have a lot of blackheads.
I do a deep cleanse once a week, using a blackhead treatment solution for about ten minutes (ingredients: Aqua, Pearl powder, White Mulberry Root Extract, Ocean Micro Mineral Elements, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber), Witch hazel extract, Chloroxylenol).
The blackheads surface, and I gently scrape them out; for the stubborn ones, I apply a bit more pressure to extract them, then use the same blackhead solution for another thirty seconds to a minute before applying DHC's astringent (the ingredients are unclear, but I found that the main components include isopropanol and butylene glycol; it has a strong alcohol scent and causes slight stinging).
However, within three days, they all come back.
I also have many blackheads on my philtrum and chin, but they grow in a strange, elongated shape, resembling grains of rice with only the tip showing white.
I can only extract them with a blackhead extractor, but I can't get them all out.
The topical retinoid (tretinoin) prescribed by my dermatologist was also ineffective.
What should I do? My acne is spread all over my face, not in patches, but rather independently located on various areas: nose, hairline, chin, cheeks, ears, philtrum, eyebrows, forehead, and even my neck! Could this be due to my irregular lifestyle (I happen to have had a very poor routine this week)? How can I improve this (besides adjusting my lifestyle and diet)?

Fan Tongxue, 10~19 year old female. Ask Date: 2016/04/10

Dr. Wu Yuxin reply Dermatology

It mainly relates to age, as sebaceous glands are most active at 17 years old, leading to increased oil production.
Regular cleansing is the best approach.

Reply Date: 2016/04/10

More Info

Dealing with oily skin, acne, and enlarged pores can be quite challenging, especially for teenagers. At 17, your skin is likely influenced by hormonal changes, which can lead to increased oil production and acne breakouts. Let's break down your concerns and explore effective solutions.

Understanding Your Skin Type
From your description, it sounds like you have combination to oily skin. This means that while some areas of your face (like the T-zone) may be excessively oily, other areas might be normal or even dry. The use of handmade soaps with essential oils can sometimes be too harsh, especially if they strip your skin of its natural oils, leading to a rebound effect where your skin produces even more oil.

Cleansing Routine
Your cleansing routine is crucial. While handmade soaps can be appealing, they may not be the best choice for oily skin. Consider switching to a gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser specifically formulated for oily or acne-prone skin. Look for ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, which can help reduce oiliness and prevent breakouts.

Moisturizing
It’s great that you’re using a toner, but if you’re experiencing tightness and excessive oiliness afterward, it may not be suitable for your skin. Instead, opt for a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer. Gel-based moisturizers can hydrate your skin without adding extra oil. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid can help retain moisture without clogging pores.

Exfoliation
Exfoliation is essential for managing oily skin and preventing clogged pores. However, over-exfoliating can irritate your skin and lead to increased oil production. Aim to exfoliate 1-2 times a week with a gentle chemical exfoliant containing AHAs or BHAs rather than physical scrubs, which can be too abrasive.

Treatment for Acne and Pores
Since you mentioned using A-acid (retinoids), it’s important to note that while they can be effective for acne, they may take time to show results. Consistency is key, and it may take several weeks to see significant improvements. If you find that A-acid isn’t working for you, consult your dermatologist about alternative treatments, such as topical antibiotics or hormonal treatments if appropriate.

For enlarged pores, consider using products with niacinamide or salicylic acid, which can help minimize their appearance and control oil production.

Lifestyle Factors
You mentioned that your sleep schedule has been irregular. Lack of sleep can exacerbate skin issues, including acne. Aim for 7-9 hours of quality sleep each night, and try to establish a consistent sleep routine. Additionally, managing stress through activities like exercise, meditation, or hobbies can also positively impact your skin.

Diet and Hydration
While you’re already aware of the importance of diet, ensure you’re consuming a balanced diet rich in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and lean proteins. Staying hydrated is equally important; aim for at least 8 glasses of water a day to help maintain your skin’s health.

Professional Help
If your acne persists despite trying these methods, it may be time to revisit your dermatologist. They can provide personalized recommendations and may suggest treatments like chemical peels or laser therapy, which can help with both acne and enlarged pores.

Conclusion
Managing oily skin and acne requires a multifaceted approach, including a suitable skincare routine, lifestyle adjustments, and possibly professional treatments. Be patient with your skin as it may take time to see improvements. Remember, it’s essential to listen to your skin and adjust your routine as needed. If you have any concerns or if your condition worsens, don’t hesitate to seek professional advice.

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