Skin Reactions After Using 18% Mandelic Acid

Skin condition after using 18% mandelic acid?

Hello, Doctor.

1.
I recently started using an 18% mandelic acid product for the past two weeks, and I have noticed an increase in acne.
Is this what people refer to as the "purging phase"? Is this harmful to my skin?
2.
I originally had a lot of blackheads on my nose, which are difficult to remove with regular cleansing.
After using the 18% mandelic acid, I have noticed the appearance of hard pimples on the tip of my nose.
Could this be a sign of comedones metabolizing? Additionally, many comedones have surfaced, and washing my face only removes a small portion.
Are there other methods to extract or remove them, or will they naturally metabolize on their own?

Wei, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2022/04/10

Dr. Wu Yuxin reply Dermatology

Acne breakouts are not necessarily caused by almond acid products.
If they are easy to extract, you can do so, but do not force it to avoid injuring the skin.
Without seeing the lesions, it is impossible to determine the exact issue.
If it is very bothersome, please seek medical attention promptly.

Reply Date: 2022/04/10

More Info

When using an 18% mandelic acid product, it's not uncommon to experience an increase in breakouts, often referred to as the "purging phase." This reaction can occur as the acid works to exfoliate the skin and promote cell turnover, which can bring underlying impurities to the surface. While it may seem alarming, this phase is typically temporary and can be a sign that the product is effectively addressing clogged pores and other skin issues. However, if the breakouts persist or worsen significantly, it may be worth consulting with a dermatologist to ensure that the product is suitable for your skin type and condition.

Regarding your concern about the hard bumps on your nose, these may indeed be a result of the mandelic acid working to metabolize existing blackheads and clogged pores. Mandelic acid is known for its ability to penetrate the skin and dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, which can help clear out pores. However, it's essential to be patient, as the process of clearing out these impurities can take time.
If you're finding that washing your face only removes a small portion of the debris, you might consider incorporating other methods to help with the extraction of blackheads. Gentle exfoliation with a soft scrub or a chemical exfoliant can aid in this process. Additionally, using a clay mask once a week can help draw out impurities from the pores. However, it’s crucial to avoid aggressive extraction techniques, as these can lead to skin irritation or scarring.

In terms of whether the increased breakouts are harmful, it largely depends on how your skin responds. If you experience excessive redness, swelling, or discomfort, it may indicate that your skin is reacting negatively to the product. In such cases, it would be wise to reduce the frequency of use or discontinue the product altogether. Always listen to your skin; if something feels off, it’s better to err on the side of caution.

To summarize, experiencing an increase in breakouts after starting an 18% mandelic acid treatment can be a normal part of the skin's adjustment process. However, if the situation does not improve or worsens, seeking professional advice from a dermatologist is advisable. They can provide tailored recommendations based on your skin type and concerns, ensuring you achieve the best possible results without compromising your skin's health. Remember, maintaining a consistent skincare routine that includes hydration and sun protection is crucial, especially when using active ingredients like mandelic acid.

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