Allergic Reactions to AHA and Skincare Products - Dermatology

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Allergic reactions after using retinoids and skincare products?


Hello, I recently started using the third-generation retinoid Adapalene along with new skincare products.
My cheeks always feel itchy, but there is no peeling, just redness, and there are dense raised areas on my chin resembling crocodile skin.
I'm unsure if this is due to excessive application of the retinoid or an allergic reaction to the skincare products.
I have not experienced any allergic reactions on my lips or neck from the products.
I would like to know if it's possible to have a localized allergic reaction to skincare products, or if it might just be due to excessive application of the retinoid? Or should I consider improving my application technique?

gǒu gǒu, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2020/11/18

Dr. Wu Yuxin reply Dermatology


Without actually seeing the lesion, it is impossible to determine the issue.
If it is causing significant distress, please seek medical attention promptly.
A proper examination is necessary to identify the problem and determine the appropriate treatment.

Reply Date: 2020/11/18

More Info


When it comes to understanding allergic reactions to AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) products, such as the third-generation A acid you mentioned, it's important to consider several factors that could contribute to skin irritation or allergic responses. Your symptoms of itching, redness, and the appearance of raised bumps resembling "crocodile skin" on your cheeks could indeed be linked to either the AHA product or the new skincare items you have introduced into your routine.

Firstly, AHA products, including A acids, are known for their exfoliating properties. They work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing for easier shedding and promoting cell turnover. While this can lead to improved skin texture and tone, it can also result in increased sensitivity, especially if used excessively or in conjunction with other potent ingredients. Overuse of AHA can lead to a compromised skin barrier, resulting in symptoms such as redness, irritation, and dryness.
On the other hand, allergic reactions to skincare products can occur even if the product has been used previously without issues. This is known as contact dermatitis, which can manifest as localized redness, itching, and swelling. It is entirely possible for a product to cause an allergic reaction in one area of the skin while leaving other areas unaffected, as you noted with your lips and neck. This localized reaction can be due to several factors, including the concentration of active ingredients, preservatives, or fragrances in the product.

To determine whether your symptoms are due to the AHA or the new skincare product, consider the following steps:
1. Discontinue Use: Temporarily stop using both the AHA and the new skincare product. This will help you identify if the symptoms resolve, indicating that one or both products were the cause.

2. Patch Testing: Once your skin has calmed down, you can reintroduce the products one at a time. Conduct a patch test by applying a small amount of the product to a discreet area of skin and observing for any reactions over 24-48 hours.

3. Consult a Dermatologist: If symptoms persist or worsen, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist. They can provide a thorough examination and may recommend allergy testing to identify specific sensitivities.

4. Proper Application Techniques: Ensure that you are applying products correctly. For AHA, it is often recommended to start with lower concentrations and gradually increase usage as your skin builds tolerance. Additionally, applying a moisturizer after using AHA can help mitigate dryness and irritation.

5. Consider Environmental Factors: Changes in climate, such as moving to a colder and drier environment, can also exacerbate skin sensitivity and dryness. Adjusting your skincare routine to include more hydrating and barrier-repairing products may be beneficial.

In summary, allergic reactions to skincare products, including AHAs, can be complex and multifactorial. It is crucial to approach the situation methodically, allowing your skin to recover and carefully reintroducing products to identify the culprit. Always prioritize gentle formulations and consider consulting a healthcare professional for personalized advice tailored to your skin's needs.

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