the Impact of AHA and Retinoids on Skin Microvascular Health - Dermatology

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A acid and azelaic acid issues?


Hello, doctor.
I have seen many discussions online about the long-term use of acids such as retinoic acid and azelaic acid causing the appearance of telangiectasia on the face.
However, after reading educational articles, I learned that these acids do not cause this condition.
In fact, they can thin the stratum corneum and thicken the dermis.
Therefore, I would like to ask if thinning of the stratum corneum could potentially lead to the appearance of telangiectasia, or if there are any indirect factors that could contribute to this? Thank you!

Y, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2023/05/09

Dr. Li Yufen reply Dermatology


Hello: Thinning of the stratum corneum does not cause telangiectasia.
The most common reasons for facial telangiectasia may include having a rosacea-prone skin type or the use of topical corticosteroids.
If the skin condition does not improve or worsens, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment.
Thank you!

Reply Date: 2023/05/09

More Info


The use of topical retinoids, such as AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and retinoids like A acid (tretinoin), has been a topic of discussion regarding their long-term effects on skin health, particularly concerning microvascular integrity. Your inquiry about the potential for these agents to contribute to the appearance of visible microvascular structures, often referred to as "telangiectasia," is quite pertinent.

First, it's essential to clarify the mechanisms of action of these compounds. Retinoids, including A acid, primarily work by promoting cell turnover and enhancing the shedding of dead skin cells. This process can lead to a smoother skin texture and improved appearance of acne and other skin conditions. AHA, on the other hand, is known for its exfoliating properties, which can also help in improving skin texture and tone.

Regarding the concern about the thinning of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) and its relationship to the appearance of microvascular structures, it is important to note that while retinoids can lead to a temporary thinning of the stratum corneum, they also stimulate the dermis to produce more collagen and elastin over time. This dual action can result in a healthier skin structure overall.
The appearance of visible microvascular structures is more commonly associated with factors such as sun damage, genetic predisposition, and the use of topical corticosteroids rather than retinoids or AHAs. Corticosteroids can cause skin thinning and lead to the dilation of blood vessels, which may explain the appearance of telangiectasia. Therefore, if you are using retinoids or AHAs and are concerned about microvascular visibility, it is unlikely that these agents are the direct cause.

However, there are indirect factors to consider. For instance, if the skin becomes overly sensitive or irritated from excessive use of these agents, it may lead to increased redness and the appearance of microvascular structures. This is why it is crucial to use these products as directed and to incorporate them gradually into your skincare routine. Overuse can lead to irritation, which may exacerbate the visibility of underlying blood vessels.

To mitigate any potential adverse effects, including the appearance of microvascular structures, consider the following recommendations:
1. Start Slowly: If you are new to retinoids or AHAs, begin with a lower concentration and apply them a few times a week, gradually increasing frequency as your skin builds tolerance.

2. Moisturize: Always follow up with a good moisturizer to help maintain the skin barrier and prevent irritation. This is particularly important when using exfoliating agents.

3. Sun Protection: Use broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. Both retinoids and AHAs can increase photosensitivity, making the skin more susceptible to sun damage, which can contribute to vascular visibility.

4. Consult a Dermatologist: If you notice persistent redness or the appearance of microvascular structures, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist. They can assess your skin and recommend appropriate treatments or adjustments to your skincare regimen.

In conclusion, while retinoids and AHAs can influence skin texture and health, they are not typically associated with the development of visible microvascular structures. Instead, factors such as skin irritation, sun exposure, and the use of corticosteroids are more likely culprits. By using these products judiciously and maintaining a robust skincare routine, you can enjoy their benefits while minimizing potential side effects.

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