Astringents: Impact on Skin and Acne Development - Dermatology

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I previously read a book that mentioned frequent use of alcohol-based astringents can cause the stratum corneum to harden.
If the stratum corneum hardens without exfoliation, is it easier to develop acne? Could the use of alcohol-based astringents, which may cause some peeling of the skin, lead to the formation of pimples? At what age does acne start to be considered adult acne?

Shou Lian Shui, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2007/01/18

Dr. Jiang Zheen reply Dermatology


The cause of acne is due to abnormal keratinization of the pores, which is not directly related to the keratinization of the skin itself.
However, certain comedogenic ingredients in cosmetics can contribute to the formation of acne.
Alcohol is also a substance that can lead to acne.
There is no specific age standard for adult acne.

Reply Date: 2007/01/18

More Info


Astringents, particularly those containing alcohol, are often used in skincare routines to help control oiliness and reduce the appearance of pores. However, their impact on the skin, especially concerning acne development, can be quite complex.
When alcohol-based astringents are applied to the skin, they can lead to a temporary tightening effect, which may feel refreshing. However, this tightening can also result in the skin becoming overly dry. When the skin is stripped of its natural oils, it may react by producing more oil, potentially leading to an increase in acne. Furthermore, the drying effect can cause the outer layer of skin (the stratum corneum) to become hardened or thickened, which can trap dead skin cells and contribute to the formation of comedones (clogged pores), leading to acne.

The idea that hardened skin can lead to acne is supported by the fact that when the skin's barrier is compromised or altered, it can disrupt the natural shedding process of skin cells. If these cells do not shed properly, they can accumulate and mix with sebum (oil), creating an environment conducive to acne development. Therefore, while astringents may initially seem beneficial for oily skin, their long-term use, especially those containing alcohol, can lead to adverse effects, including increased acne.

Regarding your question about the age at which acne is considered "adult acne," it is generally recognized that acne can persist into adulthood, often defined as after the age of 25. Adult acne can be influenced by various factors, including hormonal changes, stress, diet, and skincare products. It is not uncommon for individuals in their late twenties and thirties to experience breakouts, particularly if they have a history of acne during their teenage years.

If you are experiencing skin peeling or irritation from using alcohol-based astringents, it may be wise to reconsider their use. Instead, look for gentler alternatives that can help manage oiliness without causing excessive dryness or irritation. Ingredients such as witch hazel, tea tree oil, or salicylic acid can provide astringent properties without the harsh effects of alcohol.

In conclusion, while astringents can play a role in managing oily skin, their use should be approached with caution, especially those containing alcohol. It is essential to maintain a balance in your skincare routine, ensuring that you are not over-drying your skin, which can lead to more significant issues, including acne. If you continue to experience problems with your skin, consider consulting a dermatologist who can provide personalized advice and treatment options tailored to your specific skin type and concerns.

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