AHA: Benefits, Side Effects, and Sunscreen Tips for Skin Care - Dermatology

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Alpha hydroxy acid issues & sun protection


Hello, Doctor: I would like to improve my enlarged pores and some acne and comedone issues.
I have purchased a home-use glycolic acid product (NeoStrata Gel Plus-15 AHA, 100ml) to apply.
I have the following questions for you:
1.
If I apply an appropriate amount every night, what long-term side effects might occur? Can it be used as a skincare product?
2.
Is it safe to apply glycolic acid on areas with acne?
3.
Can glycolic acid help with enlarged pores, and how long will it take to see results?
4.
After using glycolic acid, should I apply sunscreen during the day even if I am indoors (as I will be exposed to fluorescent lights and computer screens)? I tend to break out from sunscreen, leading to more comedones and acne; do you have any recommendations for sunscreen products?
5.
Do I need to use a makeup remover to cleanse off sunscreen at night, or is a regular facial cleanser sufficient? (For example, EltaMD sunscreen gel SPF 50)
P.S.
I apologize for the many questions!

Long~, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2012/09/15

Dr. Wu Yuxin reply Dermatology


1.
Yes.

2.
In principle, it is acceptable, but if redness occurs, it is advisable to pause usage.

3.
Continuous use is necessary for enlarged pores to see ongoing improvement.

4.
If you haven't been exposed to the sun for an extended period, applying a primer is sufficient.

5.
For regular sunscreen, if it is not too thick or oily, it can be cleaned with a regular facial cleanser.

Reply Date: 2012/09/15

More Info


When it comes to using AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) products like NeoStrata Gel Plus-15, there are several important considerations to keep in mind regarding their benefits, potential side effects, and the necessity of sunscreen. Here’s a detailed response to your questions:
1. Long-term Use and Side Effects: Using AHA products daily can be beneficial for improving skin texture and reducing the appearance of pores and acne. However, long-term use may lead to side effects such as skin irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity, especially if the concentration is high or if your skin is not accustomed to acids. It’s essential to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage as your skin builds tolerance. AHA can be used as a part of your skincare routine, but it’s crucial to monitor your skin's response and adjust usage accordingly.

2. Application on Acne-Prone Areas: AHA can be applied to areas with acne, but caution is advised. While AHAs can help exfoliate dead skin cells and prevent clogged pores, they may also cause irritation, especially on inflamed or active acne. It’s best to apply the product gently and avoid over-applying on sensitive areas. If you notice increased irritation or breakouts, consider reducing the frequency of application or consulting with a dermatologist.

3. Effectiveness on Enlarged Pores: AHA can help improve the appearance of enlarged pores over time by promoting cell turnover and exfoliating the skin’s surface. However, results may not be immediate. Typically, consistent use over several weeks to months is required to see significant improvements. Patience is key, as the skin needs time to adjust and regenerate.

4. Sunscreen Application: Yes, it is crucial to apply sunscreen during the day, even if you are indoors. AHA can increase your skin's sensitivity to sunlight, making it more susceptible to UV damage. This sensitivity can lead to hyperpigmentation and other skin issues if proper sun protection is not used. Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. If you have acne-prone skin, consider using non-comedogenic, oil-free formulations to minimize the risk of breakouts. Mineral-based sunscreens (physical sunscreens) are often recommended for sensitive or acne-prone skin, as they tend to be less irritating.

5. Makeup Removal: After using sunscreen, it is advisable to remove it thoroughly at the end of the day. While a regular facial cleanser may suffice for some sunscreen formulations, using a makeup remover or cleansing oil can be more effective, especially if the sunscreen is water-resistant or has a thicker consistency. Products like micellar water or cleansing balms can also help ensure that all residues are removed, preventing clogged pores and breakouts.

In summary, incorporating AHA into your skincare routine can yield significant benefits for skin texture and acne management, but it requires careful attention to your skin's reactions and diligent sun protection. Always listen to your skin and adjust your routine as needed, and don’t hesitate to consult with a dermatologist for personalized advice tailored to your specific skin concerns.

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