Managing AHA and Retinoid Use for Oily Skin: Tips and Advice - Dermatology

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Topical retinoic acid issues


Doctor, I have extremely oily skin, and I have been using 0.1% first-generation retinoic acid for over a month.
My skin is still peeling, but its condition has improved significantly, although it feels a bit dry.
Additionally, applying skincare products causes a stinging sensation, and I have developed many dry lines.
Can I use oil-based skincare products on my face? Can I combine azelaic acid in the morning? I always apply sunscreen in the morning.
If I want to lighten my skin, can I use hydroquinone? If applying skincare products causes stinging, would you still recommend using them? Thank you, doctor.

Niming, 10~19 year old female. Ask Date: 2019/10/22

Dr. Li Yufen reply Dermatology


Hello: If you are using topical retinoids and experiencing persistent dryness, peeling, and stinging, it may indicate over-stimulation of the skin.
It is advisable to extend the interval of use, such as applying it 2-3 times a week, and to enhance your skin's moisturizing routine! Generally, if the skin is already stinging or showing significant dryness, it is not recommended to add more acidic products.
For skin lightening, hydroquinone should also be used only after the skin has returned to a normal state.
If the symptoms do not improve or worsen, it is recommended to consult a dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment.
Thank you!

Reply Date: 2019/10/22

More Info


Managing oily skin while using AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and retinoids can be a delicate balance, especially when dealing with issues like peeling, dryness, and irritation. It seems that you have been using a 0.1% retinoid (A酸) for over a month, and while you’ve noticed improvements in your skin, you are also experiencing significant dryness and irritation. Here are some tips and advice to help you manage your skincare routine effectively.


Understanding Your Skin's Reaction
Firstly, it’s important to recognize that retinoids can cause initial irritation, including peeling and dryness, especially when you first start using them. This is often referred to as the "retinoid reaction." Your skin may be adjusting to the active ingredient, and while it’s common to experience some dryness, excessive peeling and discomfort can indicate that your skin is being over-stimulated.

Adjusting Your Routine
1. Frequency of Use: If you are experiencing persistent dryness and peeling, consider reducing the frequency of your retinoid application. Instead of using it daily, try applying it every other day or even two to three times a week. This can help your skin acclimate to the product without overwhelming it.

2. Hydration is Key: Since you have oily skin, you might be hesitant to use heavier products, but hydration is crucial. Look for lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizers that contain hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin. These can help maintain moisture without clogging your pores. If you find that oil-based products cause breakouts, opt for gel-based moisturizers that provide hydration without excess oil.

3. Layering Products: When using AHA or retinoids, it’s often beneficial to layer products correctly. You can apply a hydrating serum before your retinoid to help mitigate dryness. If you want to use an oil-based product, consider applying it after your retinoid, as this can create a barrier that locks in moisture.

4. Combining with Other Actives: Regarding your question about using azelaic acid (杜鵑花酸) in the morning, it’s generally safe to combine it with retinoids, but it’s best to introduce new products gradually. Start with one active at a time to see how your skin reacts. If you choose to use azelaic acid, apply it in the morning and your retinoid in the evening.

5. Sun Protection: Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, especially when using retinoids and AHAs, as they can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. This is crucial to prevent further irritation and protect your skin.


Addressing Skin Sensitivity
If you experience stinging or burning when applying certain products, it may be a sign that your skin is too sensitive for those formulations. In such cases, it’s advisable to avoid using those products until your skin barrier has recovered. You can also consider patch testing new products before applying them to your entire face.


Considering Hydroquinone
As for your interest in hydroquinone for skin brightening, it’s essential to use it cautiously. Hydroquinone can be effective for hyperpigmentation, but it should be used under the guidance of a dermatologist, especially if your skin is currently irritated. It’s generally recommended to wait until your skin has stabilized before introducing hydroquinone.


Conclusion
In summary, managing oily skin while using AHA and retinoids requires a careful approach. Focus on hydration, adjust the frequency of your retinoid use, and be mindful of how your skin reacts to different products. If your symptoms persist or worsen, it’s always best to consult a dermatologist for personalized advice and treatment options tailored to your skin's needs. Remember, patience is key when it comes to skincare, and finding the right balance can lead to healthier, clearer skin over time.

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