Using Oral and Topical AHA: A Guide for Skincare Routine - Dermatology

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Oral isotretinoin and topical retinoids, including alpha hydroxy acids?


Question 1: During my use of tretinoin (first-generation retinoid), can I use adapalene (third-generation retinoid) instead, or should I continue using tretinoin?
Question 2: Can I use tretinoin and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) together at night (such as Neostrata 15%) or should they be used separately? However, I have a question: isn't tretinoin supposed to be used continuously? How should I incorporate these into my routine? Thank you for your response, doctor!

Mr. Huang, 10~19 year old female. Ask Date: 2016/12/02

Dr. Wu Yuxin reply Dermatology


1.
It is possible.
2.
It is not recommended; however, you can use tretinoin (A acid) one day and alpha hydroxy acid (fruit acid) the next day, but be cautious of irritation.

Reply Date: 2016/12/02

More Info


When it comes to using both oral and topical AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) products, particularly in conjunction with retinoids like tretinoin (often referred to as A酸), it's essential to approach your skincare routine with caution and an understanding of how these ingredients interact with your skin.


Question 1: Can I use first-generation A酸 (tretinoin) while on oral A酸, or should I continue with third-generation A酸 (like Adapalene)?
Using both oral A酸 and topical A酸 simultaneously can increase the risk of skin irritation, redness, and peeling. Tretinoin, a first-generation A酸, is known for its potency and can cause significant irritation, especially when combined with other strong active ingredients. On the other hand, third-generation A酸, such as Adapalene, is formulated to be less irritating while still providing effective results.

If you are already on oral A酸, it is generally advisable to stick with the third-generation A酸 for your topical application. This combination can help minimize irritation while still allowing you to benefit from the effects of retinoids. Always consult with a dermatologist before making any changes to your regimen, as they can provide personalized advice based on your skin type and concerns.


Question 2: Can I use A酸 and AHA (like Glycolic Acid) together at night, or should they be used separately?
Using A酸 and AHA together can be tricky. Both ingredients are exfoliants, but they work in different ways. AHA, such as Glycolic Acid, is water-soluble and primarily works on the skin's surface to exfoliate dead skin cells, while A酸 penetrates deeper into the skin to promote cell turnover and collagen production.

If you choose to use both, it is often recommended to apply them on alternate nights rather than simultaneously. This approach allows your skin to adjust to each product without overwhelming it. For example, you could use AHA one night and A酸 the next. This method not only helps to reduce the risk of irritation but also maximizes the benefits of both ingredients.


General Recommendations for Using A酸 and AHA
1. Start Slowly: If you are new to either ingredient, start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. This is particularly important if you are using oral A酸, as your skin may already be sensitive.

2. Moisturize: Always follow up with a good moisturizer after applying A酸 or AHA. This helps to maintain skin hydration and reduce potential irritation.

3. Sun Protection: Both A酸 and AHA can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. It's crucial to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.

4. Listen to Your Skin: If you experience excessive redness, peeling, or discomfort, consider reducing the frequency of application or consulting with a dermatologist for tailored advice.

5. Consult a Professional: Given the complexities of using multiple active ingredients, it’s always best to consult with a dermatologist. They can provide guidance based on your specific skin type, concerns, and the products you are using.

In conclusion, while both A酸 and AHA can be beneficial for your skin, using them together requires careful consideration. By following a structured routine and paying attention to how your skin responds, you can effectively incorporate these powerful ingredients into your skincare regimen.

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