Acne: Tips for Cleansing and Using AHA Products - Dermatology

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Regarding acne issues?


Doctor, I've heard that when washing your face, it's enough to lightly cleanse the cheeks.
Is this the same for people who are prone to acne on their cheeks? I've also heard that using alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) products can lead to an initial breakout; is that true? Can AHA products be used in the fall?

Dou Dou Ren, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2006/09/23

Dr. Zheng Lizhen reply Dermatology


Hello: Regardless of the area, it's best to wash your face gently.
When starting to use alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) products, you may experience an increase in breakouts, but they will gradually diminish over time.
AHA products can also be used in the fall.
Sincerely, Dr.
Cheng Li-Chen, Dermatologist.

Reply Date: 2006/09/23

More Info


When it comes to understanding acne and the use of AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) products, it’s essential to adopt a comprehensive approach that includes proper cleansing techniques, product application, and an understanding of how these products interact with your skin.


Cleansing Tips
Firstly, regarding cleansing, it is crucial to understand that while gentle cleansing is important, it should not be so minimal that it fails to remove dirt, oil, and makeup effectively. For individuals prone to acne, particularly on the cheeks, a more thorough cleansing routine is advisable. This means using a gentle cleanser that is suitable for acne-prone skin and ensuring that you cleanse your face for at least 30 seconds to a minute. Focus on areas that are more prone to breakouts, such as the cheeks, forehead, and chin.
Using lukewarm water is also recommended, as hot water can strip the skin of its natural oils, potentially leading to increased oil production and more breakouts. After cleansing, pat your skin dry with a clean towel instead of rubbing it, which can irritate the skin.


Using AHA Products
Now, regarding the use of AHA products, it is true that during the initial stages of using these products, some individuals may experience an increase in breakouts. This phenomenon is often referred to as "purging." It occurs because AHAs work by exfoliating the top layer of skin, which can bring underlying impurities to the surface. While this can be frustrating, it is typically a temporary phase.
It is also important to note that AHA products can be used in the fall; however, you should be mindful of the sun exposure. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is crucial to apply sunscreen during the day, even in the fall. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is recommended to protect your skin from UV damage.


Application Sequence
When incorporating AHA products into your skincare routine, the order of application matters. Generally, after cleansing your face, you should apply any toners or serums before applying AHA products. If you are using a moisturizer, it is typically applied after the AHA. However, if you find that your skin is becoming overly dry or irritated, you may want to consider applying a moisturizer before the AHA to create a barrier that can help mitigate irritation.


Additional Considerations
If you are experiencing excessive dryness or irritation from AHA use, it may be beneficial to reduce the frequency of application. Start with once or twice a week and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. Additionally, consider using a gentle exfoliating product that contains AHA but is formulated for sensitive skin.

For those with existing acne scars or hyperpigmentation, AHAs can be beneficial in promoting cell turnover and improving skin texture over time. However, patience is key, as visible results may take several weeks to months.


Conclusion
In summary, while cleansing your face, especially if you are prone to acne, should be thorough yet gentle, using AHA products can initially lead to breakouts but is generally a part of the skin's adjustment process. Always remember to protect your skin with sunscreen during the day, especially when using exfoliating products. If you have concerns about your skin's reaction to these products, consulting with a dermatologist can provide personalized guidance tailored to your skin type and condition.

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