Glycolic Acid: A Guide for Acne Treatment and Skin Care - Dermatology

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Glycolic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), is widely used in skincare for its exfoliating properties, particularly in the treatment of acne and other skin concerns. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting their shedding and revealing fresher skin underneath. This process can help reduce the appearance of acne, improve skin texture, and enhance overall radiance. However, as with any active ingredient, it’s essential to use glycolic acid correctly to avoid adverse reactions.

From your experience, it seems that you have been struggling with persistent acne despite previous treatments, including antibiotics and topical retinoids (A acid). The recommendation from your dermatologist to start with a lower concentration of glycolic acid before considering a chemical peel is a prudent approach. This strategy allows your skin to acclimate to the acid and minimizes the risk of irritation or adverse reactions, which can occur if you jump straight into higher concentrations.

Regarding the application of Neostrata's AHA 15 gel, it’s important to understand that the effectiveness of glycolic acid is not solely determined by the amount applied but also by the concentration and the skin's tolerance. When starting with a new glycolic acid product, it’s advisable to apply a thin layer evenly across the skin. If you find that your skin is not reacting negatively (no redness, irritation, or excessive peeling), you can gradually increase the frequency of application. Typically, starting with once or twice a week is recommended, then slowly increasing to daily use as your skin builds tolerance.

If you feel that the product is being absorbed quickly and you do not experience any tingling or discomfort, it may indicate that you are using a suitable amount. However, if you wish to increase the effectiveness, you can apply a slightly thicker layer, but be cautious not to overdo it, as this can lead to irritation. The goal is to find a balance where your skin feels comfortable while still benefiting from the glycolic acid.

As for the question of whether it’s necessary to start with lower concentrations, the answer is generally yes, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or those who have not previously used AHAs. Starting low allows you to gauge how your skin reacts and helps prevent potential side effects, such as redness, peeling, or increased sensitivity. Some individuals may tolerate higher concentrations right away, but this varies greatly from person to person.

In summary, here are some key points to consider when using glycolic acid for acne treatment:
1. Start Low and Go Slow: Begin with a lower concentration and gradually increase frequency as your skin adapts.

2. Monitor Your Skin’s Reaction: Pay attention to how your skin responds. If you experience irritation, reduce the frequency or amount used.

3. Application Technique: Apply a thin, even layer. If your skin tolerates it well, you can experiment with a slightly thicker application.

4. Combine with Other Treatments Cautiously: If you are using other active ingredients (like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide), be cautious about combining them with glycolic acid, as this can increase irritation.

5. Sun Protection: Glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so daily sunscreen use is crucial.

If you continue to experience issues with acne despite using glycolic acid, consider consulting your dermatologist for further evaluation and treatment options tailored to your specific skin type and concerns.