AHA Use: Addressing Acne and Skin Flaking Issues - Dermatology

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Issues related to the use of retinoic acid?


Hello, doctor.
I would like to ask you a few questions.
I have been using tretinoin as a skincare product daily for about a year and a half.
My skin type is mainly combination, and I tend to get acne.
During the mid-phase of using it, my skin improved significantly, and I didn't break out much.
However, recently I feel like my face isn't as bright, and I'm experiencing more breakouts.
I haven't changed my basic routine or lifestyle, so I'm wondering why I'm suddenly getting so many comedones, particularly around my temples, jawline, and chin.
Additionally, I've noticed that after washing my face with cleanser, when I rub my face, it keeps flaking.

1.
I would like to ask if the long-term use of tretinoin could be causing the breakouts in areas where my skin was previously clear, such as my temples and jawline? Does tretinoin cause acne, or could it be that I haven't been moisturizing those areas properly, leading to breakouts?
2.
After washing my face, I notice a lot of flaking when I rub my skin.
Is this because my skin is too dry, or is there another reason? My basic skincare routine consists of tretinoin, followed by toner and serum.
Is this daily flaking damaging my skin?
3.
Should I consider changing my skincare routine?

Xiao Tian, 30~39 year old female. Ask Date: 2020/08/23

Dr. Li Yufen reply Dermatology


Hello: For a detailed introduction to acne, you can refer to the article from Med's Good Friend at https://www.medpartner.club/acne-cure-care-myth/.
1.
There are many causes of acne, and the use of retinoids (A acid) does not lead to the development of acne.
2.
It may be due to excessively dry skin; it is recommended to consult a dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment at http://www.derma.org.tw/user_finddoctor.php.
3.
If the skin is too dry, you can enhance moisturization or extend the interval of applying retinoids, for example, applying once every 2-3 days.
Thank you!

Reply Date: 2020/08/23

More Info


When it comes to using AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) products like A酸 (A acid) for treating acne and skin issues, it's essential to understand how these ingredients work and how to manage their side effects effectively. Your experience of skin flaking, dryness, and breakouts after prolonged use of A酸 suggests that your skin may be reacting to the treatment, and adjustments may be necessary.

1. Understanding A酸 and Breakouts: A酸 is known for its ability to promote cell turnover, which can help clear acne and improve skin texture. However, over time, your skin may become accustomed to the product, leading to a plateau in results. Additionally, if your skin barrier is compromised due to excessive exfoliation or dryness, it can lead to increased breakouts. The areas where you are experiencing new breakouts, such as the jawline and chin, are common zones for hormonal acne, which may not be solely related to A酸 usage. It’s crucial to assess your overall skincare routine, including hydration and the use of comedogenic products that may contribute to clogged pores.

2. Flaking and Dryness: The flaking you observe after washing your face could indicate that your skin is too dry. A酸 can strip the skin of its natural oils, especially if used daily without adequate moisturization. If you are experiencing significant flaking, it may be a sign that your skin barrier is compromised. To address this, consider incorporating a more hydrating moisturizer into your routine. Look for products that contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or ceramides, which can help restore moisture and strengthen the skin barrier.

3. Adjusting Your Skincare Routine: Given your concerns, it may be beneficial to modify your skincare regimen. Instead of applying A酸 daily, consider reducing the frequency to 2-3 times a week and focus on hydration on the other days. This approach allows your skin to recover while still benefiting from the exfoliating properties of A酸. Additionally, ensure that your cleansing routine is gentle; avoid harsh cleansers that can exacerbate dryness. After cleansing, apply a hydrating toner or essence before your moisturizer to help lock in moisture.

4. Consulting a Dermatologist: If your skin continues to react negatively despite these adjustments, it may be wise to consult a dermatologist. They can assess your skin condition more accurately and provide tailored advice. They might recommend alternative treatments or a different formulation of A酸 that is less irritating.
5. Long-term Management of Acne: Acne can be multifactorial, influenced by hormones, diet, and stress levels. If you notice persistent breakouts, it may be worth exploring these factors in conjunction with your skincare routine. A dermatologist can also help identify if there are underlying issues contributing to your acne, such as hormonal imbalances.

In summary, while A酸 can be an effective treatment for acne, it’s important to listen to your skin and adjust your routine accordingly. Incorporating more hydration, reducing the frequency of A酸 application, and consulting a professional if issues persist can help you achieve healthier skin without the adverse effects you are currently experiencing.

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