Using Topical AHA and Retinoids: Expert Answers to Common Concerns

Issues with topical first-generation retinoids?

I am currently using a first-generation retinoid topically.
I would like to ask the doctor: 1.
I am applying the retinoid at night before bed.
If I want to use it during the day, can I apply sunscreen after the retinoid to block sunlight? Or can I use a third-generation retinoid with sunscreen during the day and then use the first-generation retinoid at night? 2.
If it is not suitable to apply retinoids during the day, can I use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) with L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C 20%) during the day and then apply the retinoid at night? Or would layering these acids have a counterproductive effect? 3.
If I want to apply moisturizer after using the retinoid, will there be an issue of acid-base neutralization that reduces the effectiveness of the retinoid or AHAs (since the hyaluronic acid moisturizer I use is neutral)? Or if I do not feel dry after applying the retinoid, can I skip the hyaluronic acid moisturizer and lotion? I apologize for asking so many questions! However, these concerns have been troubling me for a long time, and it has been inconvenient to consult a dermatologist directly due to the pandemic.
Please help me, doctor.
😢

Chen Yanwen, 10~19 year old female. Ask Date: 2021/08/09

Dr. Wu Yuxin reply Dermatology

1.
Daytime use is not recommended.
2.
There is a risk of overuse, which may increase skin irritation.
3.
Whether additional moisturizing is needed depends on each individual's skin condition.

Reply Date: 2021/08/09

More Info

When it comes to using topical retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), there are several important considerations to keep in mind to maximize their benefits while minimizing potential side effects. Let's address your questions one by one.

1. Using AHA and Sunscreen During the Day: If you are currently using a first-generation retinoid (like tretinoin) at night, it is generally not recommended to apply it during the day, especially if you are planning to be exposed to sunlight. Retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to UV radiation, increasing the risk of sunburn. If you want to use a retinoid during the day, it is crucial to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF afterward. However, it is more common to use retinoids at night due to their photosensitivity. If you are considering using a third-generation retinoid (like adapalene) during the day, it is still essential to follow it up with sunscreen. The combination of a retinoid in the morning and a different retinoid at night is generally acceptable, but it’s best to consult with a dermatologist for personalized advice.

2. Using AHA and Retinoids Together: If you prefer to use AHAs (like glycolic acid) and vitamin C (like L-ascorbic acid) during the day, followed by a retinoid at night, this can be a good approach. However, layering multiple acids can lead to irritation, especially for sensitive skin. It’s advisable to start slowly, using AHAs and vitamin C on alternate days or at different times of the day (e.g., AHA in the morning and retinoid at night). This way, you can assess how your skin reacts to the combination. If you experience irritation, it may be beneficial to reduce the frequency of use or consult with a dermatologist.

3. Moisturizing After Retinoids: After applying a retinoid, it is perfectly fine to follow up with a moisturizer, including one containing hyaluronic acid. There is a common misconception that applying a moisturizer immediately after a retinoid will neutralize its effects; however, this is not the case. A moisturizer can help mitigate dryness and irritation often associated with retinoid use. If your skin feels dry after applying the retinoid, it is advisable to apply a moisturizer. If you do not experience dryness, you may choose to skip it, but keeping your skin hydrated is generally beneficial.

In summary, using retinoids and AHAs can be highly effective for improving skin texture, reducing fine lines, and treating acne. However, it is essential to introduce these products gradually, monitor your skin's response, and adjust your routine as needed. Always prioritize sun protection when using these active ingredients, especially during the day. If you have ongoing concerns or specific skin conditions, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist for tailored recommendations.

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