Using AHA and Retinoids Together: Is It Too Much for Your Skin?

Alternating the use of mandelic acid and retinoic acid day and night?

Hello, doctor! I have recently been using retinoic acid to improve my acne issues.
I would like to ask if applying retinoic acid at night and using Dr.
Wu's almond acid brightening serum during the day would be too irritating for my skin, potentially worsening my acne or making my skin more sensitive?

Niming, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2021/09/18

Dr. Wu Yuxin reply Dermatology

Skin types and tolerance vary among individuals, and there is no standard answer.
If there are any issues with usage, it is advisable to discuss them directly with a physician.

Reply Date: 2021/09/18

More Info

Using both AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and retinoids (like tretinoin or other forms of retinoic acid) can indeed be a concern for many individuals, especially those with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions like acne. Both of these ingredients are potent exfoliants, and while they can be beneficial for treating acne, they can also lead to increased irritation, redness, and sensitivity when used together.

Understanding AHA and Retinoids
AHA, such as glycolic acid or mandelic acid (as in Dr. Wu's product), works by exfoliating the surface of the skin, helping to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. This can lead to a brighter complexion and can help in reducing the appearance of acne and hyperpigmentation. However, AHAs can also increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, so it's crucial to use sunscreen during the day when using these products.

Retinoids, on the other hand, are derivatives of vitamin A and are known for their ability to promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and acne. They can be very effective for treating acne, but they can also cause dryness, peeling, and irritation, especially when first introduced into a skincare routine.

Potential Interactions and Recommendations
When combining AHA and retinoids, the risk of irritation increases. This is particularly true for individuals with sensitive skin or those who are new to these ingredients. Here are some recommendations to consider:
1. Start Slowly: If you are new to either AHA or retinoids, it is advisable to introduce them into your routine gradually. Start with one product and allow your skin to adjust before adding the other.

2. Alternate Days: Instead of using both products on the same day, consider using them on alternate days. For example, use AHA in the morning and retinoids at night, or vice versa. This can help minimize irritation while still allowing you to benefit from both ingredients.

3. Moisturize: Ensure you are using a good moisturizer to help combat any dryness or irritation that may occur from using these active ingredients. Look for non-comedogenic moisturizers that won't clog pores.

4. Monitor Your Skin: Pay close attention to how your skin reacts. If you notice increased redness, peeling, or irritation, it may be a sign that your skin is overwhelmed. In such cases, it may be best to reduce the frequency of use or consult with a dermatologist.

5. Sun Protection: Both AHA and retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.

Conclusion
In summary, while using AHA and retinoids together can be effective for treating acne and improving skin texture, it is essential to approach this combination with caution. Start slowly, consider alternating their use, and always prioritize skin hydration and sun protection. If you experience significant irritation or if your acne worsens, it would be wise to consult with a dermatologist who can provide personalized advice based on your skin type and concerns.

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