DIY L-Ascorbic Acid: Optimal Concentration and Safety Tips - Dermatology

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Homemade L-ascorbic Acid


Hello Dr.
Cheng,
I would like to ask if the reason I do not feel any stinging sensation when using a cream containing 20% L-ascorbic acid is that the actual concentration of L-ascorbic acid is below 20%, or could it be due to other factors? My skin type is not sensitive.
If I were to make my own L-ascorbic acid solution, what concentration would be ideal? Are there any risks associated with homemade L-ascorbic acid?

phoebe, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2005/02/28

Dr. Zheng Lizhen reply Dermatology


Hello: Whether a product will cause irritation depends on its pH level, formulation base, and technology, not solely on the concentration being below 20%.
It is not recommended to exceed 20% for homemade L-ascorbic acid.
Sincerely, Dr.
Cheng Li-Chen, Dermatologist.

Reply Date: 2005/02/28

More Info


When it comes to DIY formulations of L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), understanding the optimal concentration and safety tips is crucial for effective and safe use. L-Ascorbic Acid is a potent antioxidant known for its skin benefits, including brightening, anti-aging, and improving skin texture. However, the concentration and formulation can significantly impact its efficacy and safety.


Optimal Concentration
The optimal concentration of L-Ascorbic Acid in topical applications typically ranges from 10% to 20%. Concentrations below 10% may not provide significant benefits, while concentrations above 20% can increase the risk of skin irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. Since you mentioned that you used a product containing 20% L-Ascorbic Acid without experiencing any stinging or irritation, it is possible that your skin is well-tolerated to this concentration. However, individual tolerance can vary widely, and factors such as skin type, existing skin conditions, and the presence of other active ingredients in your skincare routine can influence your skin's reaction.


DIY L-Ascorbic Acid Formulation
If you are considering making your own L-Ascorbic Acid serum, here are some guidelines:
1. Concentration: Aim for a concentration between 10% and 20%. If you are new to using L-Ascorbic Acid, starting at a lower concentration (around 10%) may be wise to assess your skin's tolerance before increasing to 15% or 20%.

2. pH Level: L-Ascorbic Acid is most effective at a pH level of around 3.5. You may need to adjust the pH of your formulation to ensure optimal stability and absorption. Using a pH meter or pH strips can help you achieve the desired level.

3. Stability: L-Ascorbic Acid is sensitive to light, heat, and air, which can lead to oxidation and loss of efficacy. To enhance stability, store your DIY serum in a dark, airtight container, preferably amber or cobalt blue glass, and keep it in a cool place.

4. Additional Ingredients: Consider adding other ingredients that can enhance the serum's effectiveness, such as hyaluronic acid for hydration or ferulic acid, which can stabilize Vitamin C and enhance its antioxidant properties.


Safety Tips
1. Patch Test: Before applying any new product to your face, conduct a patch test on a small area of skin to check for any adverse reactions.

2. Avoid Mixing with Certain Ingredients: Be cautious when combining L-Ascorbic Acid with other active ingredients like retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), as this can increase irritation. It’s often recommended to use these products at different times of the day (e.g., Vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night).

3. Monitor for Irritation: Even if you have previously tolerated L-Ascorbic Acid well, monitor your skin for any signs of irritation, such as redness, burning, or peeling, especially when using a higher concentration.

4. Consult a Professional: If you have any underlying skin conditions or concerns, it’s always best to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional before starting a new DIY skincare regimen.


Conclusion
In summary, when creating a DIY L-Ascorbic Acid serum, aim for a concentration between 10% and 20%, ensure proper pH levels, and take precautions to maintain stability. Always prioritize safety by conducting patch tests and being mindful of potential interactions with other skincare ingredients. If you have any doubts or specific skin concerns, consulting a dermatologist can provide personalized guidance tailored to your skin type and needs.

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