Common Questions About Using AHA and Retinoids for Acne Treatment - Dermatology

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Questions regarding the use of certain acids (Retinoic Acid, Azelaic Acid)


Due to previous issues with acne, my doctor recommended long-term use of retinoids.
I now purchase retinoids and azelaic acid on my own and visit the clinic less frequently.
However, I've come across various opinions online regarding their use, and I have several questions for the doctor.
Question 1: Many people mention that if you're concerned about the dryness or irritation from using acids alone, you can mix them with a moisturizer before applying.
Should I mix the moisturizer and the acid in my hands first before applying it to my face, or can I combine them in a small bottle for use over a period of time? Which method is preferable? Additionally, if the acid is in gel form, how should I mix it with the moisturizer?
Question 2: Many people state that azelaic acid can be used during the day because it is not photosensitive, but others advise against using acids during the day without sunscreen, as it can still lead to hyperpigmentation.
If I stay indoors all day and my room receives little to no sunlight, is it acceptable to apply acids without sunscreen?
Question 3: Some people mention that after applying acids, one should avoid exposure to light.
Does this include artificial light? I have a habit of reading before bed, but after applying acids, I hesitate to turn on the lights.
However, I've heard that artificial light is different from sunlight and may not have the same effect.
Should I avoid artificial light after applying acids?

Alan, 20~29 year old female. Ask Date: 2009/08/14

Dr. Huang Ruiyun reply Dermatology


Hello:
Response 1: Mixing with lotion can reduce irritation, but it may also decrease the efficacy of the medication.
It is advisable to use it based on your skin type.
Mix it only when you are about to use it, as pre-mixing may lead to chemical changes and degradation due to prolonged contact.
If the two product bases are incompatible, apply one first, then the other.
Response 2: Azelaic acid can be used during the day.
When using acids, it is important to apply sunscreen, particularly for retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids, as these products exfoliate the skin, making it more susceptible to sunburn or tanning.
However, the risk is not severe enough to warrant a "sunlight is deadly" caution.
Just be careful, as you may not plan to go outside during the day but circumstances can change unexpectedly.
Response 3: Other than halogen lamps, general lighting has minimal impact; just avoid being too close to the light source.
Wishing you success!

Reply Date: 2009/08/14

More Info


When it comes to using alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and retinoids for acne treatment, there are several important considerations to keep in mind. These compounds can be effective in managing acne, but their application and potential side effects require careful attention.

Question 1: Mixing AHAs or Retinoids with Moisturizers
Many individuals find that using AHAs or retinoids can lead to dryness or irritation, especially when starting treatment. To mitigate these effects, it is common to mix these products with a moisturizer. The method of mixing can vary:
1. On-the-Spot Mixing: This involves taking a small amount of the AHA or retinoid and a small amount of moisturizer in your hand, mixing them together, and then applying the combination to your face. This method allows for immediate application and ensures that you are using the right proportions for each application.

2. Pre-Mixed Bottles: Some people prefer to mix a larger batch of the two products in a small bottle for convenience. However, this can lead to stability issues, especially with retinoids, which can degrade when exposed to light and air. Therefore, the on-the-spot mixing method is generally recommended to maintain the efficacy of the active ingredients.

If you are using a gel formulation of the acid, you can mix it with a lotion or cream moisturizer by applying a small amount of each to your palm and blending them together before application. This approach helps to ensure that the gel does not dry out your skin excessively.

Question 2: Daytime Use of AHAs and Retinoids
There is some debate regarding the use of AHAs and retinoids during the day. While some AHAs, like azelaic acid, are not photosensitive and can be used during the day, retinoids are generally recommended for nighttime use due to their sensitivity to sunlight.
If you are staying indoors and not exposed to direct sunlight, you may feel comfortable using these products without sunscreen. However, it is crucial to understand that UV rays can penetrate windows, and prolonged exposure to any light source can still affect your skin. Therefore, it is advisable to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, even if you are indoors, to protect your skin from potential damage.

Question 3: Light Exposure After Application
The concern about light exposure after applying AHAs or retinoids primarily pertains to sunlight. Direct sunlight can exacerbate skin irritation and increase the risk of hyperpigmentation, especially with retinoids. However, indoor lighting, such as lamps or overhead lights, does not have the same effect as sunlight.
You do not need to avoid reading under a lamp after applying these products. The light from indoor sources is not strong enough to cause the same level of irritation or damage as direct sunlight. However, if you are using products that increase your skin's sensitivity, it is always a good practice to be cautious and consider wearing sunscreen during the day.

In summary, when using AHAs and retinoids for acne treatment, it is essential to mix them properly with moisturizers to reduce irritation, be mindful of sun exposure, and understand the differences between indoor and outdoor light. Always consult with a dermatologist for personalized advice and to ensure that your skincare regimen is effective and safe for your skin type.

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